Flat out at 25 MPH!
Last May, I was invited to learn to drive a Ford Model T at the Gilmore Car Museum, leading me to this statement that I would have never before imagined uttering. “The most fun I’ve had in a car is at a speed that would be acceptable in most neighborhoods.” That’s right, despite a past including auto-crossing, amateur rallying, and being taught to power slide in a Dodge Viper, I am most proud of driving at 25MPH down a country lane.
The Gilmore Car Museum is one of the premiere car museum in the world, and is a must see for any car enthusiast. One of my favorite things about the museum is getting there. If you take M-43 South from Hastings, Michigan, the road is full of curves and crests, undulating through some seriously beautiful countryside. In the Fall, the road is lined with an explosion of color, interspersed by several small lakes. In the Spring, especially with the windows down, there’s a crisp freshness to the air, blending the earthy richness of moist soil with the soft perfume of newly blossoming wildflowers. Upon arrival, you're greeted by a breathtakingly vast collection of vehicles, covering every genre imaginable—including several one-of-a-kind gems. The sheer variety is enough to leave any enthusiast in awe. At some point, I'll dive into a full write-up on the collection—a perfect excuse to make the hour-long drive from home once again.
Gilmore has a small fleet of ‘Tin Lizzies’ as they were know back in the day, all of which are more than a century old. The collection is comprised of various bodystyles, some trucks, a coupe, and a few Depot Hacks (the SUV of the turn of the previous century), but the majority are Phaetons. Think 4 door convertible, if you are unfamiliar with the term. Every T in the driving school fleet is of course painted black, just as Henry Ford intended. Despite the ability to drop the top, looming rain clouds meant the top of our Phaeton stayed firmly in place for the entire lesson. Luckily the rain stayed away until after we broke for lunch, especially so, since the top lacked any sides, severely hampering its usefulness to keep one dry.
My instructor for the day is a passionate owner of two Ford Model T automobiles, as well as a relatively newer Model A. She has driven her Model T’s across the country on multiple occasions and has stories for days about traveling in a vehicle that predates most modern conveniences. In fact, every instructor I encountered was also a dedicated Model T owner. After just a single day behind the wheel, I can easily understand how one could develop a deep appreciation for these historic automobiles. I now find myself occasionally browsing collector car websites to see if any are available for sale in my area.
As I climb into the Ford Model T, I quickly realize this isn't like any modern car. The controls are unfamiliar, a curious mix of foot pedals and hand levers that demand attention and precision. There’s no gas pedal and no standard clutch—just three pedals on the floor, none of which control acceleration. A tall lever stands to the driver’s right, that I must wriggle past when getting in, as our Phaeton has only a front door on the passenger side. Beneath the steering wheel, a pair of mysterious levers add to the intrigue. Once I am in place behind the wheel, and have been given the general run down on which controls do what, I take a deep breath and begin.
Starting the Engine
First, ensure the hand lever beside the seat is pulled halfway back, locking the parking brake and setting the car in neutral. Next, check the two levers on the steering column: the left one controls the spark advance, which you push all the way up to retard the timing for starting. The right one is the throttle, which I am told to lower slightly to give the engine some fuel. All of the Gilmore Car Museum’s training Model T’s have been converted to electric starters, as the old crank starts are incredibly dangerous. Happily, you simply press the button to start, and with a chug and a cough, the engine comes to life.
Getting Ready to Move
To start our journey, I push the left pedal all the way down—this puts the car in low gear. The hand lever is still in neutral, I slowly push it forward as instructed, fully releasing it to engage high gear later. I was supposed to increase the throttle slightly, feeling the car begin to roll forward. Instead, I stalled. The throttle lever on the steering wheel will take some getting used to. Thanks to some slight corrections from my instructor, I do not stall again the remainder of the day.
The museum grounds have several paved loops of various lengths that give you ample space and opportunity to get comfortable behind the wheel. After several laps on low gear, it’s time to learn to shift. As you gather speed, you ease up on the left pedal. The transition must be smooth—hesitate, and the car might lurch. With the left pedal fully released and the hand lever pushed completely forward, you’re now in high gear, gliding down the road. You adjust the throttle with your right hand, letting the Model T settle into its rhythm. The museum has a long slightly downhill service road that goes back into an area that is normally closed to visitors. This is essentially one long downhill straight, and there is a slight wind to our backs. It is here, with my instructors blessing, that we try for my speed record. I should note that none of these cars have speedometers. Luckily, there is an app for that. With my newly downloaded GPS speedometer app, we are off! It takes time to build our way to 25MPH, and as a result we don’t cruise at that speed for long before it’s time to begin slowing for the turnaround point. It may sound slow, but it was exhilarating!
Turning, Braking, and Reversing
Steering the Model T feels a bit loose compared to modern vehicles, very similar to a lawn tractor, and without power steering. You learn quite quickly that braking requires planning, there is no panic stopping in a Model T. The right pedal is the brake, but it only acts on the rear wheels, and involves a cotton strap, rather than discs or drums. You pull back the throttle, gently pressing the brake pedal to eventually slow the car to a stop. Maneuvering through a chicane smoothly and without stalling is the highlight of my driving career. Should you need to reverse, things get even more interesting. You press the middle pedal, which engages reverse gear, while keeping the left pedal halfway down to stay in neutral. The car moves backward at a steady pace, responding to your careful throttle adjustments. I have no desire to attempt to parallel park a Model T.
Bringing the Journey to a Stop
As we head back to the gathering point for lunch, I ease back the throttle and press the brake. Just before stopping completely, pull the hand lever back to neutral, to lock the parking brake. The engine settles into a low rumble. To shut it down, I switch off the ignition key, and the Model T falls silent, waiting for its next group of students.
After exiting the vehicle, I can’t help but take a moment to admire the century-old marvel. It may not have modern conveniences, but driving it is an experience—a connection to a time when paved roads were a rarity, and the journey was likely to be more thrilling than the destination.
